I do have some solutions of problems I encountered that you do not cover.My kit appears to be a combination of two different versions of this model. since I built this on my own I had no one to help hold things but attaching the cross supports, loosely, everything had enough support to build upon. Hi Sheri,How much room at the minimum do you think is needed between the GH and another structure, in order to allow for ease of installing the panels and future maintenance?Thank you! Thanks, Ted. I got the manual online but without your blog I would have put the greenhouse up much like described in the manual. But thankfully I Googled info on the greenhouse and came upon your blog. you can also install the small Hold Down Connector (part 47) at the bottom of the stud. stainless steel hex head bolts will slide down the groves in the side post 14 and rafters 15 and lock in place when the nuts are tightened. Item no. ... We started the greenhouse benches before the greenhouse panels were up (much cooler for us to dig the concrete footings.) Thanks again for your effort. Wow, it sounds like HF has really added some new problems to the kit. There have been some threads in the GardenWeb Greenhouse Forum showing how folks have modified their greenhouses to withstand snow load. Mark them with a pencil when you unpack them to save time later.Diagonal corner brace 80 does not have a center hole for the SDS bolt shown on your diagram. It took my husband and I a solid day and a half. Above that I want to be in my cellar. I'm 62 and it took a little longer for me to assemble, it went well and in 4 weekend I had the cement poured and the unit was standing, electric and drain were install 2 weeks before to the erecting the unit. Or are inserting the panels necessary? Also, none of our #30 braces had any arrows on any of them. It was a mystery when they would arrive, but they did, and in good condition, in a few weeks. The top and bottom holes are positioned so the center of the hole is 3/8" from the edge. You might consider posting a thread with your photos to the GardenWeb greenhouse forum. Use the two holes near the center of the right door rail (Part 27) to join the front ceiling plates (24 and 25.) Sometimes when people write me about parts discrepancies, we finally figure out that the manual they're using doesn't match the kit they have. I hope they can send you what you need, and best of luck to you! I'll call them tomorrow, and I'll post back here either way, with the results of my own Harbor Freight telephone adventure. The panels do provide some needed strength and stiffening, but since there is no wind resistance without the panels, I don't the empty frame presents much of a risk.Only exception would be the door and roof vent poly panels, as those are inserted into the door frame and roof vent frames before those items are added to the greenhouse structure.It's a good idea to double check squareness as you go, to be sure you aren't surprised with any openings that are slightly out of square (this doesn't present much of a problem until you start placing the panels!) At the time, I priced 4mm twinwall polycarbonate at a number of greenhouse supply companies. If you want a bag of 130, you can order the clips (supposedly) for the 10x12. when I take the piece/part off of the main structure do most of them have holes on them to temporarily stick the bolt through it with the nut on the backside to keep it in place? I don't relish the idea of spending $28.00 for 50 clips. These are usually in stock. (Do you, by chance, have your own construction company, she asks hopefully? Interestingly, I checked the older manual for our older version of the kit, and it states the diagonal should be 15'10", not the 15'5" shown in the new manual. I told here it was just the movie, since we have surround sound. At this point, all of my original six year old Harbor Freight wall panels (except those on the sheltered north side) are in bad need of replacement. Next. Just make sure that the parts listed on the back pages of your manual are actually present in your box (sometimes HF ships kits that are missing a part, and that's not a happy discovery. The film I get for free from area temporary greenhouses that businesses put in their parking lots. I have just now come upon another challenge: My subdivision rules restrict me to no more than 8 ft high on a greenhouse. I'd order the extra clips now from the toll free Harbor Freight number on the manual, so you have those ready when you need them. Sheri. Try learning on one of the other wall panels.All of the above sounds a lot more complicated than it is. let me know if u see any flaws in my potential method. I noticed that a poster above me asked about some parts that are present in the new GH kit, but absent from my kit. That could be a long wait. My hub thinks I can't and he is usually right, but I thought I would check with you who might know! Glad you got the clips ordered, but sorry to hear about the escaping panels. Thank you, Anetta, for the valuable info. If 10 x 12 is too big, try the HFGH 8 x 10 model 93920 for $499. It should cost you less to heat during the winter, if you do so. She's sending me a copy of the new manual, because her version is even newer than the PDF file version that Harbor Freight has on their website. ________________________________________________________________. Getting this type of news, in November, would be a total disaster for me.We'll keep thinking. But both manuals use the same part number for the roof panel; Part number 60.For some GH parts, the model number makes a big difference; not for others. Smaller greenhouses can be harder to keep cool in warm weather, but that might be a better option than trying to modify the 10 x 12 to a shorter height. Do I clip the panel in on the windows? If so that would concern me, a bit. The metal frame is damaged where the nuts are secured. But because we used concrete pavers sitting on the ground for the interior floor, they did not consider it to be permanent. I also drilled holes to attache them to the frame and did some of the other structural enhancements. But, these small curves really do go behind the edge of the thinner poly panels, and that is what Harbor Freight is trying to show you in the (unclear) illustration C on page 16 of the Harbor Freight manual.One trick I've learned is to put the clip in place this way...hold the clip so the center curve will come in contact with the panel. Scroll down the page to the part that says "Aluminet Shade Cloth Screen Panels". Thanks so much for a wonderful blog. if i cant do this i will take it back before opening it. The fifth photo in section part shows a close up of an installed clip (although it's holding a white metal screen panel in place, and not a clear polycarbonate panel.) I honestly don't know if this is helping, or not; I can't state definitively yet. However, the cost to purchase enough material (just for the roof) with crating and shipping fees, was $410. This aluminum greenhouse lets you grow vegetables, plants and flowers out of season. Is there any tips for the 6x8 size? ;-)Hmmm. We don't get too much wind here in western Oregon but when we get wind it can be strong. Is there any idea you guys can think of for a new roof? If you order anything from HF, I'd also ask for confirmation that the panel clips are IN STOCK when you place the order, and also ask them to send you tracking confirmation by email. They're still functioning fine, but look ugly. Save $338.64. With $6.99 s/h, tax etc. After a lot of standing and starring, I noticed that the frame work of the HFGH is made with a perfect solution in its design. When sunk in the ground there is dirt and gravel to support the sides. Then, click the top "foot" into the track. But generally I think most greenhouses end up being a good chunk of work regardless. To remove a clip (and I do that often) I use a screwdriver to gently pop the top "foot" out of the track. Standard Corrugated Plastic Greenhouse Panels. I tried to consistently use the order of "top to bottom" in my bolts list, so "SH,L,L,L" means Short at the top, then three more Long bolts beneath that. )Not really sure if a home-built would be easier than this kit...probably some types, like a hoop house, would be. Basically those boards just covered up the open void in the metal base, preventing dirt and water from accumulating in there, and add a bit of rigidity to the base.Let me know if this doesn't answer your question, and we’ll be happy to try to help!Sheri, Wow! Back again Anetta. I checked level and square again and forced the piece together after lossening the bolts all around the area. Worth the effort? This comment has been removed by a blog administrator. Over time, my panels have become more yellowed/brittle, so they are more fragile to handle. 10 ft. x 12 ft. Greenhouse with 4 Vents $ 849 99. Getting the roof on just in time so that I can have a dry spot to work in if it rains or snows tomorrow. It's tedious, but if the folks in China forgot to include a part of the framing, it's better to find it now, than when the structure is halfway completed and you're up on a ladder. Leave the SDS bolt out if your kit does not have the center bolt hole in brace 80. I really really really want to paint the aluminum GREEN! Many of the problems mentioned seem to have been addressed. Thanks I took your advise and traded a 10x40 foot greenhouse to a guy that makes websites and he was able to create exactly what I wanted. Thank you so much for the ideas since without you I wouldn't have given this enough thought.A couple of other thoughts. All in all it took about a month of spare time while working 50-60 hour weeks.Now that it's winter in Chicago, I'm storing all my outdoor potted plants which normally were in the garage. Hi Mark,I had the same problem (see part four of this blog, and scroll down to "The Loose Window Problem." I will keep you all informed of my progess, I have been reading this blog and I'd like to thank all for their contributions. I called in a few of my neighborlady friends today to help set the roof beams in place. I found 10 mm. (hopefully) I will also be taking plenty of pics before and during the tear down process to use as a reference. Just a quick comment-rather than mucking around with bolt counts, I found it easier to just take a drill and cut holes in the channels of the studs approx 1/3 and 2/3's up. In May of  2008, some new problems began to surface on internet greenhouse forums, regarding the polycarbonate panels supplied with this kit. Mine still work, but they can be fussy, after 8 years. Sorry! Mutte, thank you so much for writing such a comprehensive post, with information to help others. The newer version, with a few changed parts, is Item 69893. My husband wonders, could you split the difference (meaning, very slightly adjust the base, so the corner to corner measurements are as close to the same as possible? Our HFGH is going on ten years old...In our county, if we had poured a concrete foundation, our greenhouse would have been a taxable improvement to our property...because it would have been considered "permanent." I'm not sure if this might explain your parts discrepancies, but I'm very happy you survived the process, in spite of the confusion!I often say it's a good thing most gardeners are a little bit stubborn, by nature. !I'm going to have to wait till some dry weather to put it back together. But, I haven't tried to order any rear wall panels yet. If these are still viewable, that will help. With all of this done I feel pretty good that it will withstand the rare but severe wind we get here. I will be happy to try to help you figure this out. To beat the coupon end date, I bought the kit on December 1, 2009. Thanks for much for doing this. I'm going to try to order them from HF. 93920 greenhouse … Sorry for the confusion.Ted, Hi again Ted, you're absolutely right! It’s about 5” tall, and the aluminum door track sits on top of that, so it’s a huge step-over. I hold out little hope they're manufactured anywhere else.When I contacted Harbor Freight back in May of 2008 about the panel deterioration problem, this was part of their reply: "Unfortunately our warranty on the parts for this item is only 90 daysand we take case by case in determining how we replace the panels for each customer. Support Structure (Benches and Shelving) A) A 48" long 2x4 is screwed to the inside of the base at … I have greatly appreciated the guide. They are perhaps a tad soft (not the greatest quality) but the heads are specially shaped to slide in a grove in the wall and roof studs. We like the idea of being separated from the rest of the trade show. (Good thing gardeners are generally stubborn, patient, determined types, eh?). Not quite the 10x12 but at least it is square.My instruction manual gives the item # as 69893. I did this in six places. A lot depends on how complicated your foundation is. There can't be a short bolt because each of the bolts must go through a type 31 (size wise) brace. So far, I think I am doing good .... right? On page 7 it states the diagnonal to be 15' 5" . I just called and ordered the clips for our upcoming HFGH project. The doors hang on the wheels at the top and float in a groove in the bases.One frustration was that a bunch of parts in my manual were not in the kit and I had a few parts that were not listed in the parts list. I look forward to reading the rest of your blog as I too start my HFGH adventure. Just a thought, but what about installing the "floor plates" right to the foundation and skip the base? I have to say, the HFGH manual was one of the most horrible examples we've come across in our many DIY exploits. Also, I am not sure I have the door jams correct. As silly as it may sound, having a greenhouse that was equal in beauty and function was the goal. (You can google "screws to attach metal roofing to wood" and you'll find pictures. If I did not have the roof entirely covered by shadecloth year round, I'm pretty sure I'd be seeing deterioration sooner, in my sunny climate. One other thing...when learning, try using on one of the wall studs that is not a corner post. One trick I've learned is to put the clip in place this way...stick the bottom "foot" in the track, and place the center part of the clip on top of the panel. Also, where do you buy most of your greenhouse parts. If someone, anyone can post the length and width along with the four hole placements, I would dearly appreciate it! )I have heard of a few folks who didn't use the steel base, because they thought the steel might eventually rust. It was on sale for $149 but they were out at the store. I also have shade cloth coming. Thanks so much for adding your comments here, and for the link to your good pictures. I still sell mostly on the seattle and portland craigslists locally but use the site as a reference tool to send potential customers to. Or can I assemble that side - including the panels - before I set it up?Wayne. We uninstalled the window frames to do this caulk repair, but I made one goof...I did not make a note of the order the windows were installed. I e-mailed them to see if the rear wall panels were available, they say they are not. 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